| Servicing when
replacing a Battery |
| 1. Removing old batteries |
|
| 1. Pay attention to the positions and polarities of the battery
terminals. |
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| 2. Disconnect the ground cable connector first. |
| 3. Treat or replace any cables, connectors, or clamps that are
corroded or damaged. |
| 4. Remove, with a wire brush or hot water, any corrosion that
has built-up where the terminals contact the connectors. |
| 5. Store/dispose of the old battery safety in a safe place. |
|
2. Installing a new battery |
|
| 1. Remove any debris from the bottom of the battery
and the battery carrier, and mount the battery securely. |
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| 2. If the battery is for motorcycle, make sure that the exhaust
tube is not twisted, as it may restrict the flow, and that it doesn't
come in contact with the chain or exhaust pipe. |
| 3. Connect the ground cable connector last. |
| 4. Never connect the cables backward. |
5. After connection, thinly coat the metal parts of the battery
connection with corrosion-preventative grease.
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| 3. Electrical circuit check |
| Checking battery connections |
| 1. Before starting the engine, give a final check to make sure
that the connections are not backward or loose. |
| 2. If the connections are OK, the needle on the vehicle's ammeter
will fluctuate between " Discharge " and "-"
when the ignition switch is turned on. |
|
| Checking the charge
System ( Simple Method) |
| 1. If the charge lamp goes out, the charge system is operating
normally ( in cars with voltmeters, the needle should first fluctuate
rapidly between " C " and " + ", and then drop
back close to 0 within 5 seconds ). |
| 2. If the charge lamp is still lit or the voltmeter needle indicates
below 0, either the regulator voltage is set too low or the charge
system is faulty. Check for loose battery connections and for a
loose or slipping drive belt. If everything is normal, including
the generator or regulator is not functioning properly, service
them all. |
| 3. If the voltmeter needle does not return to near 0 within 5
seconds and continues to fluctuate rapidly between " C "
and " + ", the set voltage for the regulator is too high
and must be readjusted ( this will also occur for batteries that
are heavily discharged ). |
|
| 4. Checking with a voltmeter or
battery tester ( BT ) |
| For a negative ( - ) ground vehicle |
| 1. Make contact between the negative (-) BT lead and the vehicle's
body or the engine, connect the positive ( + ) BT Lead to the positive
( + ) battery terminal. |
| 2. Disconnect the negative (-) cable and connect positive (+) BT
Lead in its place. Connect the negative (-) BT leads to the negative
(-) battery terminal. If the terminal voltmeter reads 0V, the system
is normal. If the voltmeter reads 12V, it indicates either a leak
or faulty wiring. |
|
| 5. Checking engine starting
capacity |
| If the starter doesn't operate or revolution is sluggish |
| 1. Contact with the terminal is faulty. |
| 2. The starter is faulty. |
| 3. A wire in the starting system is broken, a core wire is broken,
or a connection is faulty. |
| 4. The ignition switch is faulty. |
| If starter revolution is good, but the engine refuses to start,
or if revolution becomes unstable, the ignition system is faulty.
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